Finding a boat...
I had a few unique requirements for the boat I wanted to purchase which I could then modify for this unconventional project:
—LOA (overall length) less than 27 feet (to fit comfortably into my slip and to minimize hull drag)
—Maximum LWL (max waterline length — for the highest hull speed possible)
—Maximum beam (>8.5 feet) for easy storage of the yard-spar when lowered and comfort belowdecks
—Minimum displacement (<4,000#) to minimize hull drag
—Fiberglass hull (my romantic notions of yesteryear sailing do not extend to wooden hulls)
—A deck-stepped mast hinged at the base (to allow raising/lowering the mast without a crane)
—Shrouds swept aft of abeam (to give the yard-spar some room to swing when raised)
—Minimal number (preferably zero!) of thru-hulls below the waterline
—Standup headroom (for comfort when glamping on the water)
Just as importantly, what I did NOT require was a blue-water boat that sailed well upwind since I plan to sail exclusively in protected coastal waters and to mostly motor whenever the wind requires a close-reach or close-haul. This meant I could look at boats most other sailors would denigrate as wimpy, flimsy, unstable leeward slugs due to light construction, low ballast-to-displacement ratios and minimal draft; for my purposes this would be just fine since these “design flaws” would result in minimal displacement (see #4 above). Minimum hull drag is critical when sizing an electric motor for propulsion and the required battery bank and also allows for the smallest sail area possible to drive the vessel at any given speed. You can find the checklist I used when surveying potential boats in APPENDIX E of the design document (click here to access and scroll to the end)
If you’ve been around small sailboats for any length of time, you’ll know that the first and last requirements (listed above...LOA<27’ and standup headroom) would seem to be mutually exclusive for someone around six foot in height; and in fact, that last design requirement proved to be the toughest to meet. One desired design element I had to reluctantly cross off my list was twin keels. I wanted to have the shoal draft that twin (or bilge) keels offer and the ability to safely beach the boat, but this is quite a rare find in production sailboats. If I ever design something from scratch, twin keels of low aspect ratio will definitely be included in the first draft.
I looked at a number of contenders (Catalina 25, San Juan 7.7, Seaward 25, Buccaneer 272, Ranger 26, etc.) but finally found what I was searching for...a well-equipped if somewhat ragged Laguna 26 with a functioning 4-cycle outboard motor at a reasonable price. It met all my requirements (I was so happy when I stepped down into the salon and could stand fully upright!) except the shrouds were (mostly) rigged abeam the mast. However, she had extra chainplates through-bolted to the upper hull aft of the mast which will allow me to re-rig the shrouds back far enough to give the yard-spar room to swing when hoisted and still provide adequate lateral support to the mast.
—LOA (overall length) less than 27 feet (to fit comfortably into my slip and to minimize hull drag)
—Maximum LWL (max waterline length — for the highest hull speed possible)
—Maximum beam (>8.5 feet) for easy storage of the yard-spar when lowered and comfort belowdecks
—Minimum displacement (<4,000#) to minimize hull drag
—Fiberglass hull (my romantic notions of yesteryear sailing do not extend to wooden hulls)
—A deck-stepped mast hinged at the base (to allow raising/lowering the mast without a crane)
—Shrouds swept aft of abeam (to give the yard-spar some room to swing when raised)
—Minimal number (preferably zero!) of thru-hulls below the waterline
—Standup headroom (for comfort when glamping on the water)
Just as importantly, what I did NOT require was a blue-water boat that sailed well upwind since I plan to sail exclusively in protected coastal waters and to mostly motor whenever the wind requires a close-reach or close-haul. This meant I could look at boats most other sailors would denigrate as wimpy, flimsy, unstable leeward slugs due to light construction, low ballast-to-displacement ratios and minimal draft; for my purposes this would be just fine since these “design flaws” would result in minimal displacement (see #4 above). Minimum hull drag is critical when sizing an electric motor for propulsion and the required battery bank and also allows for the smallest sail area possible to drive the vessel at any given speed. You can find the checklist I used when surveying potential boats in APPENDIX E of the design document (click here to access and scroll to the end)
If you’ve been around small sailboats for any length of time, you’ll know that the first and last requirements (listed above...LOA<27’ and standup headroom) would seem to be mutually exclusive for someone around six foot in height; and in fact, that last design requirement proved to be the toughest to meet. One desired design element I had to reluctantly cross off my list was twin keels. I wanted to have the shoal draft that twin (or bilge) keels offer and the ability to safely beach the boat, but this is quite a rare find in production sailboats. If I ever design something from scratch, twin keels of low aspect ratio will definitely be included in the first draft.
I looked at a number of contenders (Catalina 25, San Juan 7.7, Seaward 25, Buccaneer 272, Ranger 26, etc.) but finally found what I was searching for...a well-equipped if somewhat ragged Laguna 26 with a functioning 4-cycle outboard motor at a reasonable price. It met all my requirements (I was so happy when I stepped down into the salon and could stand fully upright!) except the shrouds were (mostly) rigged abeam the mast. However, she had extra chainplates through-bolted to the upper hull aft of the mast which will allow me to re-rig the shrouds back far enough to give the yard-spar room to swing when hoisted and still provide adequate lateral support to the mast.
